Saturday, March 2, 2019
Friday, March 1, 2019
You can celebrate 303 Day in Denver with burritos, beer and more. But what is it, exactly?
While 303 Day — an annual March 3 celebration of all things Colorado — sure seems like the type of event that the state’s founding fathers would have written into the constitution, it’s actually a relatively new occasion.
In fact, when we reached out to Colorado historians and experts to learn more about the origins of the now-ubiquitous event named after our first area code, we were surprised that they had no clue how or when 303 Day got started. Professors at the University of Colorado’s Boulder and Denver campuses couldn’t help us. Then we tried History Colorado, the Colorado and Denver tourism offices, and the Denver mayor’s arts and culture commission. No luck there, either.
Turns out, 303 Day isn’t an official state holiday at all. It’s the brainchild of Channel 93.3, Denver’s modern rock radio station, and Illegal Pete’s, the Colorado-based burrito chain. Denver’s periodical for young professionals, 303 Magazine, later joined in on the project.
The first 303 Day was in 2009, after a conversation between Channel 93.3 deejay Jeb Freedman — aka Nerf — and members of the Colorado band 3OH!3.
“I told them that if (the band) 311 has their 3/11 day, they should have a 303 day,” Freedman said recently. “Then I said, ‘Wait, that shouldn’t be a holiday for (just) you guys; it should be a holiday for the whole state.’ “
The first year was “just a handful of tweets,” Freedman said, but the idea quickly caught on.
Since then, 303 Day has ballooned into a well-known Colorado “holiday” and includes a little something for everyone, including $3.03 breakfast burritos or bowls, margaritas, bloody marys and New Belgium beers at all nine of Illegal Pete’s locations. Plus, if you wear your favorite Colorado gear, you’ll get a free “I 303’d” sticker there, too.
You can also enter to win tickets to 303 Day at Night, a show at The Oriental Theater featuring 888, AMZY, One Flew West and others. Though the March 3 concert is free, it’s first-come, first-served access, but you can score guaranteed admission by donating at least $3.03 to Foodbank of the Rockies.
Plus, on March 3, when you visit the Illegal Pete’s on Colfax between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m., you can win clothing made by Colorado-based Belong Designs, say “hi” to Nerf the 93.3 deejay, and grab a copy of 303 Music Vol. 2, a vinyl album featuring all local artists created by 303 Magazine.
The magazine is donating 80 percent of the proceeds from record sales to Youth on Record, a nonprofit that seeks to empower at-risk teens with music.
The organizers also are offering free headshots to 150 local comedians, artists and bands in honor of 303 Day, since that can be a stumbling block for burgeoning performing artists. The photos will be on display on the magazine’s website and at Illegal Pete’s restaurants around Colorado.
Living near or in the mountains isn’t all that makes Colorado special, said Erin Barnes, spokeswoman for Illegal Pete’s. It’s also the eclectic mix of people who live here.
“That’s why we get so excited about 303 Day,” she said. “It’s a chance for all of us sports fans, rock stars, book nerds, foodies, radical crafters and metalheads to get together to celebrate a love of our community.”
Above all else, the annual celebration is designed to bring Coloradans together — it’s as simple as that. And that’s pretty easy to do, considering how much people love this place. (Have you seen real estate prices lately?)
“People resonate with 303 Day because no matter what we’re into, we can all come together to celebrate our home state,” Barnes said. “Everyone has a unique relationship to Colorado, and we try to reflect that in the way we celebrate 303 Day. We have something for everyone. We encourage people to rock their Colorado gear because we want to see your favorite bands, sports teams, breweries, roller derby teams and more.”
The history of area codes in Colorado
Ten-digit local phone numbers came to Denver in the late 1990s, according to Brooke Gladstone with History Colorado. “It’s a pretty common history,” she says. “Cities grow and run out of numbers, so they introduce a new area code. Prior to the late ’90s, numbers (for local calls) were only seven digits and didn’t require an area code.”
Nationally, three-digit area codes date back to 1947 (with 303 reportedly covering the entire state of Colorado), but they were used primarily for making long-distance calls between states. As the number of people using telephones and fax machines grew, so too did the need for additional area codes. Colorado, for instance, added the 720 area code for Front Range residents in 1998 once all the 303 numbers were taken.
In August 1998, The Associated Press described the day when Denver residents first began having to dial 10-digit phone numbers to make local calls — and they were not thrilled. One Denver resident complained that she was “starting to feel like a robot” because of all the numbers she had to memorize.
[Read More …]
You can celebrate 303 Day in Denver with burritos, beer and more. But what is it, exactly?
While 303 Day — an annual March 3 celebration of all things Colorado — sure seems like the type of event that the state’s founding fathers would have written into the constitution, it’s actually a relatively new occasion.
In fact, when we reached out to Colorado historians and experts to learn more about the origins of the now-ubiquitous event named after our first area code, we were surprised that they had no clue how or when 303 Day got started. Professors at the University of Colorado’s Boulder and Denver campuses couldn’t help us. Then we tried History Colorado, the Colorado and Denver tourism offices, and the Denver mayor’s arts and culture commission. No luck there, either.
Turns out, 303 Day isn’t an official state holiday at all. It’s the brainchild of Channel 93.3, Denver’s modern rock radio station, and Illegal Pete’s, the Colorado-based burrito chain. Denver’s periodical for young professionals, 303 Magazine, later joined in on the project.
The first 303 Day was in 2009, after a conversation between Channel 93.3 deejay Jeb Freedman — aka Nerf — and members of the Colorado band 3OH!3.
“I told them that if (the band) 311 has their 3/11 day, they should have a 303 day,” Freedman said recently. “Then I said, ‘Wait, that shouldn’t be a holiday for (just) you guys; it should be a holiday for the whole state.’ “
The first year was “just a handful of tweets,” Freedman said, but the idea quickly caught on.
Since then, 303 Day has ballooned into a well-known Colorado “holiday” and includes a little something for everyone, including $3.03 breakfast burritos or bowls, margaritas, bloody marys and New Belgium beers at all nine of Illegal Pete’s locations. Plus, if you wear your favorite Colorado gear, you’ll get a free “I 303’d” sticker there, too.
You can also enter to win tickets to 303 Day at Night, a show at The Oriental Theater featuring 888, AMZY, One Flew West and others. Though the March 3 concert is free, it’s first-come, first-served access, but you can score guaranteed admission by donating at least $3.03 to Foodbank of the Rockies.
Plus, on March 3, when you visit the Illegal Pete’s on Colfax between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m., you can win clothing made by Colorado-based Belong Designs, say “hi” to Nerf the 93.3 deejay, and grab a copy of 303 Music Vol. 2, a vinyl album featuring all local artists created by 303 Magazine.
The magazine is donating 80 percent of the proceeds from record sales to Youth on Record, a nonprofit that seeks to empower at-risk teens with music.
The organizers also are offering free headshots to 150 local comedians, artists and bands in honor of 303 Day, since that can be a stumbling block for burgeoning performing artists. The photos will be on display on the magazine’s website and at Illegal Pete’s restaurants around Colorado.
Living near or in the mountains isn’t all that makes Colorado special, said Erin Barnes, spokeswoman for Illegal Pete’s. It’s also the eclectic mix of people who live here.
“That’s why we get so excited about 303 Day,” she said. “It’s a chance for all of us sports fans, rock stars, book nerds, foodies, radical crafters and metalheads to get together to celebrate a love of our community.”
Above all else, the annual celebration is designed to bring Coloradans together — it’s as simple as that. And that’s pretty easy to do, considering how much people love this place. (Have you seen real estate prices lately?)
“People resonate with 303 Day because no matter what we’re into, we can all come together to celebrate our home state,” Barnes said. “Everyone has a unique relationship to Colorado, and we try to reflect that in the way we celebrate 303 Day. We have something for everyone. We encourage people to rock their Colorado gear because we want to see your favorite bands, sports teams, breweries, roller derby teams and more.”
The history of area codes in Colorado
Ten-digit local phone numbers came to Denver in the late 1990s, according to Brooke Gladstone with History Colorado. “It’s a pretty common history,” she says. “Cities grow and run out of numbers, so they introduce a new area code. Prior to the late ’90s, numbers (for local calls) were only seven digits and didn’t require an area code.”
Nationally, three-digit area codes date back to 1947 (with 303 reportedly covering the entire state of Colorado), but they were used primarily for making long-distance calls between states. As the number of people using telephones and fax machines grew, so too did the need for additional area codes. Colorado, for instance, added the 720 area code for Front Range residents in 1998 once all the 303 numbers were taken.
In August 1998, The Associated Press described the day when Denver residents first began having to dial 10-digit phone numbers to make local calls — and they were not thrilled. One Denver resident complained that she was “starting to feel like a robot” because of all the numbers she had to memorize.
[Read More …]
Thursday, February 28, 2019
How to Open Up to Gaping
If you’re a porn watcher, there’s a strong likelihood you’re familiar with anal gaping. Searching the term on any popular adult site will net you thousands of results.
[Read More …]
Wednesday, February 27, 2019
Mardi Gras 2019 in Colorado: 15 places to eat, drink and party
Between the beads, crawfish, king cakes and hurricane cocktails, Mardi Gras has to be one of the most decadent and festive holidays.
Mardi Gras, also known as Fat Tuesday, is a day for indulging prior to the start of Lent, the 40 days between Ash Wednesday and Easter that typically involves fasting or giving up your favorite food or some bad habit. This Christian tradition is particularly popular among Roman Catholics, and it’s especially prevalent in New Orleans, which throws a massive, world-renowned Mardi Gras party every year.
For those who want to get in on the action without leaving town, there are plenty of opportunities across Colorado to celebrate Mardi Gras. Here are some of them:
Steamboat Springs
Though Steamboat is really more of a cowboy-hat-and-boots kind of a town, it does Mardi Gras masks and beads pretty well, too. On March 2, the ski area has free face painting, a parade (costumes are encouraged), street performers and a free concert by Nathan and the Zydeco Cha Chas. There also will be some Southern dishes on tap at various restaurants throughout the weekend, including gumbo, po’ boys, etouffee and a crawfish boil. Steamboat Ski Resort, 2305 Mount Werner Circle, Steamboat Springs, steamboat.com/things-to-do/events/steamboat-mardi-gras.
Frisco
If you love dogs and you love Mardi Gras, have we got news for you: The town of Frisco is combining both into one epic parade on March 2. There will be dogs in costumes (and, I guess, humans will be there), plus a “yappy hour” with beer, wine, gumbo and beignets. The event benefits Hope for Animals- Clear Creek Rescue, a foster-only rescue organization. Later in the afternoon, there’s a doggy costume contest that might just break your brain with cuteness. Downtown Frisco, 800-424-1554, townoffrisco.com/events/mardi-gras-4paws-3-2-19.
Breckenridge
Breckenridge is celebrating Mardi Gras with a lively parade and a free concert by the Hazel Miller Band on March 5. Good news: You can register your parade float the day of and still be entered to win up to $500 for the most creative float. Main Street, Breckenridge, 970-453-2913, gobreck.com/event/mardi-gras/.
Denver
The organizers of Denver’s Mardi Gras swear you won’t even recognize the Exdo Event Center when you arrive on March 2; you might just think you’re actually on Bourbon Street in New Orleans. This giant party, which has a “seven deadly sins” theme, features live bands and DJs, as well as tarot readers, face painters, burlesque dancers, models and more than 60 performers. Plus, you have a shot at being crowned the king or queen of Mardi Gras if your costume is impressive enough. Denver Mardi Gras, Exdo Event Center,1399 35th St., Denver, 720-507-1376, denvermardigras.com.
Snowmass
Snowmass has a 36-year tradition of throwing fabulous Mardi Gras parties, so you can trust that this year will be no different. The ski area starts the day on March 5 with the “Mother of All Ascensions” uphill race to Gwynn’s High Alpine, followed by entertainment on the Snowmass Mall, an official bead toss, a concert, a kids zone, king cake, s’mores and fireworks over Fanny Hill. If you aren’t too tired from the day before, stick around for a luxurious Catena Zapata Wine Dinner at Viceroy Snowmass on March 6, a four-course wine-paired dinner. Snowmass, various locations, 800-679-3151, gosnowmass.com/event/mardi-gras-celebration/.
Manitou Springs
You don’t need to register for the Manitou Springs Carnivale Parade on March 2. Just show up, and be sure to bring your dog and your kids, as this is a family-friendly event. It’s also super important that you stop at least twice along the parade route to entertain the crowd, so start practicing your best dance moves now. Manitou Avenue, Manitou Springs, 719-685-5089.
Keystone
Mardi Gras at Keystone is all about gumbo, so bring your appetite. The Keystone Mardi Gras party and River Run Gumbo Cook-Off are set for March 5. For $12 to $15, you can try tons of homemade gumbo recipes, then vote for the best in town. There also will be free live music by Chris Daniels and the Kings. Interested in entering your gumbo to win? Anyone can enter and it’s free to compete. You could be crowned the king or queen of seafood/exotic gumbos, chicken gumbos and sausage gumbos. There’s also a prize for best team spirit, so be sure to warm up those vocal cords and get out your best Mardi Gras costumes. River Run Village, Keystone, 800-919-0038, keystonefestivals.com.
Stoney’s
For the ninth year in a row, Stoney’s Bar and Grill is hosting its annual Mardi Gras crawfish boil on March 2. There will be plenty of food to go around, with 750 pounds of the crustacean ready to boil. And since it’s first-come, first-served, the Stoney’s folks are doing two waves of food: one at 2 p.m. and another at 4 p.m. There will also be jambalaya, gumbo, pralines and king cakes for sale. After you’ve eaten your fill, listen to Tony and the Blue Krewe throughout the afternoon. Stoney’s Bar and Grill, 1111 Lincoln St, Denver, 303-830-6839, stoneysbarandgrill.com.
Mardi Gras Rumpus
There’s a little bit of everything at the Mardi Gras Rumpus hosted by Call to Arms Brewing on March 2, including a crawfish boil, smoked barbecue meats, gumbo, special beer releases and the world’s tiniest Mardi Gras parade. You read that right: a tiny parade, complete with mini-floats that can’t be larger than a Radio Flyer red wagon. Plus, you’ll be entertained by the Mile High Brass Band. Call to Arms Brewing Company, 4526 Tennyson St, Denver, 720-328-8258, calltoarmsbrewing.com.
Dairy Block
Head over to the Dairy Block on March 2 and 3 for an entire weekend of Mardi Gras events, starting with an adults-only Masquerade Bacchanal on Saturday. Then, stick around for the Petite Parade on Sunday, led by Denver’s Tivoli Brass Band and the Handsome Little Devils. (You can even participate by building your own float out of a shoebox.) After the parade, there’s an alley party with live entertainment, performers, a kids mask-making station, and food and beverages. If you want to make a whole weekend out of it, you can stay at The Maven Hotel, which is offering a special Mardi Gras package starting at $219 per night. Dairy Block, 1800 Wazee St., Denver, 720-360-4733, dairyblock.com.
Mythology Distillery
Mythology Distillery in Denver is celebrating Mardi Gras on March 2 with live music by the Royal Street Ramblers and a whole menu of New Orleans-inspired cocktails, including hurricanes, sazeracs and vieux carres. Mythology DIstillery, 3622 Tejon St., Denver, 720-458-0501, mythologydistillery.com.
Diebolt Brewing
You could spend your entire Saturday at Diebolt Brewing Company. It’s starting the day with a crawfish boil, king cakes, new beer and music from Badda Boom Brass Band. Then, later that night, it will be hosting “Mardi Ha-has and Ta-tas,” a variety show with comedians, burlesque dancers, aerialists and more. Diebolt Brewing Company, 3855 Mariposa St., Denver, 720-643-5940, dieboltbrewing.com.
Bayou Bob’s
This is the 33rd celebration of Mardi Gras for Bayou Bob’s, which serves up seafood and Southern comfort food in Denver all year long. The party starts on March 1 and runs through March 5, with hurricanes, beads, music, crawfish and other Cajun dishes. Bayou Bob’s, 1635 Glenarm Place, Denver, 303-573-6828, bayoubobs.com.
Dazzle
In the mood for a little Fat Tuesday music? Head to Dazzle Denver on March 5 for the LowDown Brass Band, a Chicago-based group that knows how to get down. Dazzle, 1512 Curtis St., Denver, 303-839-5100, dazzledenver.com.
Landlocked Ales
Head to Lakewood on March 2 for a crawfish boil at Landlocked Ales. The brewery is doing three seatings, at 3, 5 and 7 p.m. There’ll be festive decor, king cake, beer specials and crawfish straight from Louisiana. Landlocked Ales, 3225 South Wadsworth Blvd., Lakewood, 303-284-8748, landlockedales.com.
[Read More …]
2019 James Beard Award semifinalists include eight from Colorado for the “Oscars of food”
It’s a big day in the world of restaurants: The James Beard Foundation released its list of 2019 restaurant and chef award semifinalists.
For the uninitiated, the James Beard awards are the Oscars of the food world — to win one (or even make the list of semifinalists or final nominees) is a massive honor that cannot be overstated. These awards recognized the absolute best chefs, restaurants, pastry chefs, bakers and more from across the country.
A handful of Colorado restaurants and chefs made it into the semifinals, which means they have a chance to make it to the final round of nominees before the 29th annual James Beard Awards Gala in May in Chicago. The list of finalists will be announced on March 27.
MORE: Here’s what Alex Seidel’s 2018 James Beard Foundation award meant for the Denver dining scene
The process for determining the list of semifinalists started in October with entries from an online open call and from a group of 250 volunteer panelists around the country. More than 600 judges will now vote on the list of semifinalists to determine the final nominees. Later, they’ll vote to select the winners, which are kept confidential until the award ceremony.
The judges are past James Beard award winners, leading restaurant critics, food and wine editors and culinary educators.
Here are the Colorado semifinalists for the 2019 James Beard awards:
Best New Restaurant
Best Chef, Southwest
Caroline Gover, Annette, Aurora
Kelly Whitaker, The Wolf’s Tailor, Denver
Outstanding Baker
Andy Clark, Moxie Bread, Louisville
Outstanding Pastry Chef
Jeb Breakell, The Wolf’s Tailor, Denver
Outstanding Service
Frasca Food and Wine, Boulder
Outstanding Wine Service
Element 47 at the Little Nell, Aspen
Outstanding Wine, Spirits or Beer Producer
Todd Leopold and Scott Leopold, Leopold Bros., Denver
This story will be updated as more information becomes available.
“I never quarrel with a man who buys ink by the barrel,” former Indiana Rep. Charles Brownson said of the press. But we need your help to keep up with the rising cost of ink.
Get your first month for just 99 cents when you subscribe to The Post.
[Read More …]
2019 James Beard Award semifinalists include eight from Colorado for the “Oscars of food”
It’s a big day in the world of restaurants: The James Beard Foundation released its list of 2019 restaurant and chef award semifinalists.
For the uninitiated, the James Beard awards are the Oscars of the food world — to win one (or even make the list of semifinalists or final nominees) is a massive honor that cannot be overstated. These awards recognized the absolute best chefs, restaurants, pastry chefs, bakers and more from across the country.
A handful of Colorado restaurants and chefs made it into the semifinals, which means they have a chance to make it to the final round of nominees before the 29th annual James Beard Awards Gala in May in Chicago. The list of finalists will be announced on March 27.
MORE: Here’s what Alex Seidel’s 2018 James Beard Foundation award meant for the Denver dining scene
The process for determining the list of semifinalists started in October with entries from an online open call and from a group of 250 volunteer panelists around the country. More than 600 judges will now vote on the list of semifinalists to determine the final nominees. Later, they’ll vote to select the winners, which are kept confidential until the award ceremony.
The judges are past James Beard award winners, leading restaurant critics, food and wine editors and culinary educators.
Here are the Colorado semifinalists for the 2019 James Beard awards:
Best New Restaurant
Best Chef, Southwest
Caroline Gover, Annette, Aurora
Kelly Whitaker, The Wolf’s Tailor, Denver
Outstanding Baker
Andy Clark, Moxie Bread, Louisville
Outstanding Pastry Chef
Jeb Breakell, The Wolf’s Tailor, Denver
Outstanding Service
Frasca Food and Wine, Boulder
Outstanding Wine Service
Element 47 at the Little Nell, Aspen
Outstanding Wine, Spirits or Beer Producer
Todd Leopold and Scott Leopold, Leopold Bros., Denver
This story will be updated as more information becomes available.
“I never quarrel with a man who buys ink by the barrel,” former Indiana Rep. Charles Brownson said of the press. But we need your help to keep up with the rising cost of ink.
Get your first month for just 99 cents when you subscribe to The Post.
[Read More …]
Restaurant review: Q House’s modern Chinese fare is a tasty ode to chef Christopher Lin’s roots
By Deliah Singer, Special to The Denver Post
3.5 stars (out of 4)
Many people’s first introduction to Chinese food was Americanized plates of General Tso’s chicken dripping in gooey sauce and lo mein noodles so slick with oil and soy sauce that clumsy chopstick skills were no match. But we returned again and again because every meal was about more than just the delicious food — it was an exploration of a new culture (one that appealed even more once we finally mastered those two wooden sticks).
Christopher Lin’s experience was a bit different. Born to Taiwanese parents who owned an eatery in New Hampshire when he was a kid, Lin ate the traditional Chinese and Taiwanese foods of his family’s past. Q House, Lin’s first restaurant, is a reimagining of that history. The City Park restaurant, which opened in May, is both an ode to Lin’s ancestry and a modern, refined take that reflects the talent and perspective he’s developed since graduating from the Culinary Institute of America and cooking for bigwigs in New York City.
“A lot of the flavors at least start with a memory of something I ate growing up,” Lin said.
A bustling, urban eatery, Q House is a partnership between executive chef Lin, Jen Mattioni and Jon Pinto. It’s dimly lit and unembellished, perfectly suited to the gritty East Colfax corridor where the restaurant resides. Lin and his team’s skills come through in a variety of dishes that showcase the diversity of Chinese cuisine. Some are flavor punches of spice and garlic, while others are more nuanced. Yes, diners will find mentions of General Tso’s and spare ribs and wontons, but there’s so much more to Q House than those familiar names. It’s worth taking the time to explore it all, over many visits.
Vibe: With a nondescript exterior and minimalist interior, Q House jives with the worn-in appearance of the bars and restaurants along this strip of East Colfax Avenue. The dinner spot is almost always full, whether you visit on a Wednesday or a Friday evening, but the cacophony of conversation and plates being set down feels sociable rather than overwhelming. An open kitchen is the highlight: It’s fronted by six counter seats (a tight squeeze when everyone is trying to stuff puffy winter jackets onto hidden hooks) that provide a close-up view of a massive sizzling wok and Lin placing finishing touches as dishes head to the dining room. In warmer months, garage doors open onto a decent-size patio.
Hits: Q House is the sort of restaurant where you peer around at the dishes on nearby tables and think, “Do I have room for that?” In other words, you won’t be able to eat everything you want in one visit.
Like many Asian eateries, Q House’s plates are meant to be shared. The menu starts with appetizers and works its way down to entrée-size offerings, though diners can mix and match based on what sounds good; servers recommend choosing at least one option from each of the four sections. Of the smaller plates, the rich pork belly bun ($5), which comes one to an order, is a necessary meal-starter. Then, decide between chicken and shrimp wontons ($8) bathing in a luscious pool of chile oil and schmaltz and the Yunnan brisket salad ($12), a play on the Chinese affinity for braised meats. The salad’s foundation is cardboard-thin slivers of beef brisket (stewed in soy sauce, spices and aromatics), which are topped with a small mound of peppery watercress and sprinkles of fried garlic slivers. Hidden between the two are sweet Asian pears and sliced watermelon radishes.
From the veggie section, the Jenga-like tower of fried Chinese eggplant ($10) is battered in potato starch and rice flour for a lighter coating that allows the vegetable’s earthiness to come through. Or, opt for the stir-fried Brussels sprouts ($10) — sweet (courtesy of maple syrup), spicy (hello, chiles), and citrusy (thanks to lemongrass).
When it comes to larger plates, there’s no wrong order; simply follow your stomach’s direction. Salt and pepper head-on shrimp ($24) are an example of the complexity and care the kitchen puts into every dish. While simple in presentation — nearly a dozen crustaceans sit atop chip-like shrimp cakes — the shrimp are cleaned and trimmed before being battered in potato starch and rice flour and fried, making them easier to eat. The hot, crisp exterior gives way to the tender meat, including, yes, the head. Don’t shy away.
The fat and briny mussels in a classic Cantonese black bean sauce ($17) are good, but the accompanying crisp fries — served in a Chinese takeout counter — are the real star. Some may call the move cheesy, but it’s actually a response to Lin not wanting to pair every dish with a bowl of rice, a praise-worthy decision. (Tip: Save the Brussels sprouts sauce to swipe the fries through.)
Duck lo mein ($17) is elevated with substantial chunks of confit duck leg buried among slippery, but not oversauced, noodles; Napa cabbage and snow peas add crunch to the classic flavor combo. Braised pork rice ($9) is based on what Lin calls a typical Taiwanese comfort food: a container of white rice piled with braised pork and sautéed greens. At Q House, Lin deftly mixes the ingredients together — like parents often do for young kids — letting the braising jus soak into the pork belly- and mustard greens-dotted rice without becoming overly salty or too rich.
Full or not, order the coconut cheesecake ($9). The supersized triangle is more than enough for two and is a trifecta of sweetness: crumbly Oreo crust, a fluffy center that’s half cream cheese and half coconut cream, and a generous topping of chewy toasted coconut. The scoop of cloud-like, house-made whipped cream on the side pulls a sweet, nutty flavor from pandan extract. (Pandan is a tropical plant from Southeast Asia whose leaves are frequently used to flavor Asian desserts.)
Misses: There’s not much to fault Q House’s kitchen team on. Mostly, it’s a matter of taste. Three dishes — the Bang Bang chicken salad ($11), beef tongue and tripe ($12), and Chong Qing chicken ($25) — incorporate Sichuan peppers, a commonplace spice in Chinese cuisine that causes a tingling and numbing sensation on the lips and tongue. There’s some heat, yes, but it’s the mouth’s reaction that can be disconcerting, making sips of water feel like they’re running over, but not touching, one’s tongue. If you can stand the odd feeling, the rice flour-battered Chong Qing chicken is wonderfully juicy and crispy-skinned.
The one dish that should be reconsidered is the end-of-meal almond cardamom pudding ($9). The consistency was more custard than pudding, and though it contained a plethora of textures and ingredients — almond meringue squares, pomegranate seeds, Honeycrisp apples — they didn’t mesh together, resulting in a bland bowl that lacked the exciting tangle of flavors you expect after working your way through the rest of the menu.
Drinks: Rather than introducing Denverites to traditional Chinese alcohols, Q House skews its booze menu toward local palates with an array of beer, wine and cocktails.
Red, white, rosé and sparkling wines are available by the glass ($7 to $15) and are primarily of California or French origins. Four of the eight beers and ciders on offer ($5 to $9) are locally brewed, though there are two Japanese ales from Hitachino. The amber-hued red rice ale ($9) is a good introductory sipper with its strong fruity notes and a starchy aftertaste that can take some getting used to.
For the nine cocktails ($10 to $12), Mattioni and Pinto cleverly use Eastern ingredients to enliven, balance, or spice up recognizable blends. The margarita-esque Turmeric Cooler ($10) gets its color and hint of spice (which could be amped up) from turmeric-honey, while the Monkey Shoulder Scotch whisky in the Pear Sidecar ($12) is mellowed with pear and balanced by Thai chiles.
Service: The servers at Q House reflect their neighborhood: They’re congenial and low-key and lack any pretension. But don’t mistake that ease for lack of knowledge. The staff can answer even the most minor and technical questions about dishes, and diners would do well to follow their advice on current favorite eats and just how many dishes will leave them full but not stuffed.
Bottom Line: With Q House, Lin and his team accomplish something special by honoring Chinese cuisine and Lin’s ancestry while simultaneously modernizing the food in a way that reflects the chef’s talents and appeases contemporary American palates. Combined with the casual atmosphere and seamless service, Q House can certainly be considered among Denver’s best.
Price: Appetizers and vegetables ($5 to $13); Entrée-style dishes ($9 to $25); Desserts ($9); Cocktails ($10 to $12)
Fun Fact: Lin may have grown up in the restaurant world, but he’s created an impressive resumé all on his own, most notably working under Momofuku’s David Chang in New York City. He also spent a year as sous chef at Old Major in LoHi.
Restaurant Info
Q House
3421 E. Colfax Ave.
720-729-8887
Hours: 5 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday; 4 to 9 p.m., Sunday
Reservations: Accepted
Parking: Street parking
Star Rating Guide: Ratings range from zero to four stars. Zero is poor. One star, satisfactory. Two stars, good. Three stars, very good. Four stars, excellent.
[Read More …]
Restaurant review: Q House’s modern Chinese fare is a tasty ode to chef Christopher Lin’s roots
By Deliah Singer, Special to The Denver Post
3.5 stars (out of 4)
Many people’s first introduction to Chinese food was Americanized plates of General Tso’s chicken dripping in gooey sauce and lo mein noodles so slick with oil and soy sauce that clumsy chopstick skills were no match. But we returned again and again because every meal was about more than just the delicious food — it was an exploration of a new culture (one that appealed even more once we finally mastered those two wooden sticks).
Christopher Lin’s experience was a bit different. Born to Taiwanese parents who owned an eatery in New Hampshire when he was a kid, Lin ate the traditional Chinese and Taiwanese foods of his family’s past. Q House, Lin’s first restaurant, is a reimagining of that history. The City Park restaurant, which opened in May, is both an ode to Lin’s ancestry and a modern, refined take that reflects the talent and perspective he’s developed since graduating from the Culinary Institute of America and cooking for bigwigs in New York City.
“A lot of the flavors at least start with a memory of something I ate growing up,” Lin said.
A bustling, urban eatery, Q House is a partnership between executive chef Lin, Jen Mattioni and Jon Pinto. It’s dimly lit and unembellished, perfectly suited to the gritty East Colfax corridor where the restaurant resides. Lin and his team’s skills come through in a variety of dishes that showcase the diversity of Chinese cuisine. Some are flavor punches of spice and garlic, while others are more nuanced. Yes, diners will find mentions of General Tso’s and spare ribs and wontons, but there’s so much more to Q House than those familiar names. It’s worth taking the time to explore it all, over many visits.
Vibe: With a nondescript exterior and minimalist interior, Q House jives with the worn-in appearance of the bars and restaurants along this strip of East Colfax Avenue. The dinner spot is almost always full, whether you visit on a Wednesday or a Friday evening, but the cacophony of conversation and plates being set down feels sociable rather than overwhelming. An open kitchen is the highlight: It’s fronted by six counter seats (a tight squeeze when everyone is trying to stuff puffy winter jackets onto hidden hooks) that provide a close-up view of a massive sizzling wok and Lin placing finishing touches as dishes head to the dining room. In warmer months, garage doors open onto a decent-size patio.
Hits: Q House is the sort of restaurant where you peer around at the dishes on nearby tables and think, “Do I have room for that?” In other words, you won’t be able to eat everything you want in one visit.
Like many Asian eateries, Q House’s plates are meant to be shared. The menu starts with appetizers and works its way down to entrée-size offerings, though diners can mix and match based on what sounds good; servers recommend choosing at least one option from each of the four sections. Of the smaller plates, the rich pork belly bun ($5), which comes one to an order, is a necessary meal-starter. Then, decide between chicken and shrimp wontons ($8) bathing in a luscious pool of chile oil and schmaltz and the Yunnan brisket salad ($12), a play on the Chinese affinity for braised meats. The salad’s foundation is cardboard-thin slivers of beef brisket (stewed in soy sauce, spices and aromatics), which are topped with a small mound of peppery watercress and sprinkles of fried garlic slivers. Hidden between the two are sweet Asian pears and sliced watermelon radishes.
From the veggie section, the Jenga-like tower of fried Chinese eggplant ($10) is battered in potato starch and rice flour for a lighter coating that allows the vegetable’s earthiness to come through. Or, opt for the stir-fried Brussels sprouts ($10) — sweet (courtesy of maple syrup), spicy (hello, chiles), and citrusy (thanks to lemongrass).
When it comes to larger plates, there’s no wrong order; simply follow your stomach’s direction. Salt and pepper head-on shrimp ($24) are an example of the complexity and care the kitchen puts into every dish. While simple in presentation — nearly a dozen crustaceans sit atop chip-like shrimp cakes — the shrimp are cleaned and trimmed before being battered in potato starch and rice flour and fried, making them easier to eat. The hot, crisp exterior gives way to the tender meat, including, yes, the head. Don’t shy away.
The fat and briny mussels in a classic Cantonese black bean sauce ($17) are good, but the accompanying crisp fries — served in a Chinese takeout counter — are the real star. Some may call the move cheesy, but it’s actually a response to Lin not wanting to pair every dish with a bowl of rice, a praise-worthy decision. (Tip: Save the Brussels sprouts sauce to swipe the fries through.)
Duck lo mein ($17) is elevated with substantial chunks of confit duck leg buried among slippery, but not oversauced, noodles; Napa cabbage and snow peas add crunch to the classic flavor combo. Braised pork rice ($9) is based on what Lin calls a typical Taiwanese comfort food: a container of white rice piled with braised pork and sautéed greens. At Q House, Lin deftly mixes the ingredients together — like parents often do for young kids — letting the braising jus soak into the pork belly- and mustard greens-dotted rice without becoming overly salty or too rich.
Full or not, order the coconut cheesecake ($9). The supersized triangle is more than enough for two and is a trifecta of sweetness: crumbly Oreo crust, a fluffy center that’s half cream cheese and half coconut cream, and a generous topping of chewy toasted coconut. The scoop of cloud-like, house-made whipped cream on the side pulls a sweet, nutty flavor from pandan extract. (Pandan is a tropical plant from Southeast Asia whose leaves are frequently used to flavor Asian desserts.)
Misses: There’s not much to fault Q House’s kitchen team on. Mostly, it’s a matter of taste. Three dishes — the Bang Bang chicken salad ($11), beef tongue and tripe ($12), and Chong Qing chicken ($25) — incorporate Sichuan peppers, a commonplace spice in Chinese cuisine that causes a tingling and numbing sensation on the lips and tongue. There’s some heat, yes, but it’s the mouth’s reaction that can be disconcerting, making sips of water feel like they’re running over, but not touching, one’s tongue. If you can stand the odd feeling, the rice flour-battered Chong Qing chicken is wonderfully juicy and crispy-skinned.
The one dish that should be reconsidered is the end-of-meal almond cardamom pudding ($9). The consistency was more custard than pudding, and though it contained a plethora of textures and ingredients — almond meringue squares, pomegranate seeds, Honeycrisp apples — they didn’t mesh together, resulting in a bland bowl that lacked the exciting tangle of flavors you expect after working your way through the rest of the menu.
Drinks: Rather than introducing Denverites to traditional Chinese alcohols, Q House skews its booze menu toward local palates with an array of beer, wine and cocktails.
Red, white, rosé and sparkling wines are available by the glass ($7 to $15) and are primarily of California or French origins. Four of the eight beers and ciders on offer ($5 to $9) are locally brewed, though there are two Japanese ales from Hitachino. The amber-hued red rice ale ($9) is a good introductory sipper with its strong fruity notes and a starchy aftertaste that can take some getting used to.
For the nine cocktails ($10 to $12), Mattioni and Pinto cleverly use Eastern ingredients to enliven, balance, or spice up recognizable blends. The margarita-esque Turmeric Cooler ($10) gets its color and hint of spice (which could be amped up) from turmeric-honey, while the Monkey Shoulder Scotch whisky in the Pear Sidecar ($12) is mellowed with pear and balanced by Thai chiles.
Service: The servers at Q House reflect their neighborhood: They’re congenial and low-key and lack any pretension. But don’t mistake that ease for lack of knowledge. The staff can answer even the most minor and technical questions about dishes, and diners would do well to follow their advice on current favorite eats and just how many dishes will leave them full but not stuffed.
Bottom Line: With Q House, Lin and his team accomplish something special by honoring Chinese cuisine and Lin’s ancestry while simultaneously modernizing the food in a way that reflects the chef’s talents and appeases contemporary American palates. Combined with the casual atmosphere and seamless service, Q House can certainly be considered among Denver’s best.
Price: Appetizers and vegetables ($5 to $13); Entrée-style dishes ($9 to $25); Desserts ($9); Cocktails ($10 to $12)
Fun Fact: Lin may have grown up in the restaurant world, but he’s created an impressive resumé all on his own, most notably working under Momofuku’s David Chang in New York City. He also spent a year as sous chef at Old Major in LoHi.
Restaurant Info
Q House
3421 E. Colfax Ave.
720-729-8887
Hours: 5 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday; 4 to 9 p.m., Sunday
Reservations: Accepted
Parking: Street parking
Star Rating Guide: Ratings range from zero to four stars. Zero is poor. One star, satisfactory. Two stars, good. Three stars, very good. Four stars, excellent.
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