Yes, Ash’Kara is co-owned by “Bachelor” star (and Denver resident) Ben Higgins, but we refuse to lead this story about the new Lower Highland Middle Eastern restaurant with anything related to a reality TV dating show.
Absolutely refuse.
Ash’Kara is too good to be defined by a reality TV dating show. The rotisserie octopus with zhug (think Middle Eastern salsa verde) is too good for that. Its chef, Daniel Asher, formerly of Linger and Root Down and still with River and Woods, is too good for that. The space, with its cool 1980s “Miami Vice” vibe, is also too good for that. And the drinks, like the myrtle berry-rific Mirage, are definitely too good for that.
We didn’t really think that octopus — and good luck getting the image of an octopus rotisserizing on a spit out of your mind — could be that addictive, but it is. It’s marinated in harissa, berbere and garlic, and along with the green dollops of zhug, it’s a tender, flavorful bite that you’ll want lots more of.
There’s also hummus made with organic Bulgarian chickpeas, the kind that chef Asher’s Israeli uncle insisted had to be used; small plates like dolmas, falafel and lamb kofte; and bigger dishes like duck tagine and wood-fired Alamosa striped bass.
“The food is inspired by wandering around the Middle East and the cultural juxtaposition and mash-up that brings,” Asher said.
Ash’Kara, which means ”Heck yeah!,” opens Wednesday, Dec. 19, and even if you don’t find love with Bachelor Ben there, you’ll find well-made Middle Eastern staples, which is probably better in the long run anyway.
Ash’Kara: 2005 W. 33rd Ave., Denver, 303-537-4407; Sun.-Thurs. 4 p.m.-11 p.m., Fri.-Sat. 4 p.m.-midnight
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