By Daliah Singer, Special to The Denver Post
2 stars (out of 4)
For many, the start of a new year is about goal-setting: Lose weight. Volunteer more. Launch a new business. Spend more time with the kids. The Preservery, in RiNo’s Backyard on Blake development, seems to know a thing or two about reevaluating and making changes. In its nearly three-year existence, the regional American restaurant has had three chefs (Derrick Cooper is currently manning the ovens); switched from a casual, order-at-the-counter style to traditional table service; and mostly scrapped the market side of the concept. It’s all been a response to an in-flux neighborhood that’s seeing, well, an influx of workers and residents where once there were only visitors — and before that, basically no one.
Unfortunately, the latest iteration of The Preservery is not its best. In the process of reinventing the eatery, owners Whitney and Obe Ariss have watered down the special sauce that made The Preservery stand out. Octopus and spicy samosas and ricotta cheesecake have been traded in for salads and burgers.
In a neighborhood that is still changing and growing, it’s expected that restaurants will experience moments of transition, of in-between-ness. Finding a balance between what The Preservery was and where it can go is certainly achievable. There are plenty of promising bright spots: the lamb burger, for one; the A-plus patio and warm atmosphere, reasons two and three. But there are improvements to be made — and a new year is just the time to make them happen.
Vibe: Oh-so-RiNo. The one-time warehouse (hello, adaptive reuse) retains its industrial feel with high ceilings, brick walls and exposed piping, and diners will feel right at home with the cut flower-topped wood tables and booths, and garage-door window behind the bar. RiNo’s artsy side gets a nod with one teal and red wall — currently hosting the creations of Denver’s Dan Ericson — and a chalkboard-covered corner that is now showcasing a mural by a street artist who uses the tag “Sardine.” Large windows mean the space is always sunlit, and the music is regularly tuned to high-energy pop and hip-hop.
Hits: Among the fairly standard brunch fare — which, wonderfully, is available six days a week — the shrimp and grits ($16; also available at dinner for $18) stands out for its depth of flavor. A hefty bowl of smoked Gouda grits form a delectable sponge for the spice-tinged, tomato-based Creole gravy, chunky carrots, greens and perfectly cooked crustaceans. Top it with an egg cooked to your liking (we suggest poached) to amp up the lusciousness.
The golf-ball-size potato croquettes ($6) make for a solid lunchtime snack or side. Arriving three to a plate, the deep-fried mashed potatoes are ooey-gooey in the middle, get some texture from chopped peppers, and have a crisp, tempura-battered exterior. Our one ask: Serve the dish with more Caesar aioli for dipping.
At dinner, the rosé mussels ($16) nearly overflow their bowl — well-cooked and swimming in a traditional broth that enjoys a hint of sweetness from the pink wine.
One of the best evening offerings is the lamb burger ($18). Rich and meaty, the pink-in-the-middle burger is enhanced with a thin rectangle of melty Brie. The sauces (olive-tomato tapenade and roasted garlic aïoli) take a backseat — as in, you can barely taste them. Which is fine, because this is a burger that’s best left alone. Really good meat and really good cheese are enough. The chewy fries served on the side are referred to as “frites” on the menu, but they are not the thin, crispy, straight-off-the-fryer indulgences of Belgium or France. They’re good fries — just not frites. The house-made white bun, however, does need improving; it was bland and too small.
Misses: The brunchtime patty melt ($15) didn’t contain enough gooey cheese to really qualify as a melt. It’d be more apt to call the sandwich — which is topped with roasted garlic aïoli, sautéed onions, bacon strips, aged cheddar, and a little-bit-runny egg — a dressed-up burger. The house-made sourdough slices it sits between arrived so over-toasted that it was impossible to eat beyond the middle, and the bread also lacked the funky taste that’s its defining quality.
At dinner, the roasted vegetable salad ($13), well-portioned for sharing, was overdressed in lemon-thyme vinaigrette. The hefty array of greens and veggies were enjoyable, but not what was promised on the menu. There was no farro or cauliflower, but broccoli did make a surprise appearance.
Dessert was the most disappointing. Two tarts ($3 each) were available: salted chocolate and what the server said was butterscotch (but which turned out to be a not-very-zesty lemon curd). Co-owner Whitney took over the pastry responsibilities from a part-time chef, and the results are so-so. Both tarts had dough that lacked sweetness and fell apart when forked through; the fillings were fine but not enticing enough to earn a clean plate.
Drinks: Can you even call yourself a Colorado restaurant without a compelling lineup of local beers? Probably not. But The Preservery doesn’t have to worry about that. The RiNo eatery features six brews from venues such as Black Shirt Brewing Co. and Good River Beer, a rotating local draft of the day, and Stem Ciders’ pear flavor.
There’s also a tight list of wines, plus cocktails from bar manager Natalia Posthill. The spicy cucumber ($12) combines jalapeño-tinged heat and light floral notes in a refreshing tequila and St-Germain tipple that’s as suitable for brunch as it is dinner. Skip the Colorado sour ($14), a pretty, ombré-style drink that plays with the age-old combo of bourbon and orange but leaves one wondering what red wine (floating on top) is doing in the glass.
At brunch, the mile high Bloody Mary ($9 for a single, $18 for bottomless) swirls either vodka or tequila with slightly spicy, house-made mix that gets a flavor punch from pickle brine.
Service: The Preservery is a neighborhood spot, and the service appropriately reflects that. Servers are congenial. Food arrives in a timely fashion. There’s nothing special about the hospitality, but diners certainly feel welcomed and paid attention to. One practice the restaurant should be commended for: A 3 percent fair-wages charge is added to all checks to help fund living wages for back-of-house employees who don’t benefit from tips.
Bottom Line: Go to The Preservery to enjoy happy hour on the patio or bring out-of-town friends for a boozy weekend brunch. You’ll enjoy hanging out here. But right now, look elsewhere in the neighborhood when you’re searching for a dinner that will impress.
Price: Appetizers and salads ($7 to $23); entrées ($3 to $35); desserts ($3); brunch ($8 to $16); cocktails ($10 to $14)
Fun Fact: Brunch at The Preservery comes with a soundtrack on the side. On the last Sunday of each month, during So What! The Brunch (11 a.m. to 3 p.m.), local spinners DJ K-Nee and DJ Low Key set the mood while guests enjoy the full midday menu and bottomless mimosas and Bloody Marys. Reservations are recommended.
The Preservery
3040 Blake St., Unit 101; 303-298-6821; thepreservery.com
Hours: 10 a.m. to 9 p.m., Tuesday through Thursday; 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday; 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., Sunday
Reservations: Accepted
Parking: Free lot and street parking
Star Rating Guide: Ratings range from zero to four stars. Zero is poor. One star, satisfactory. Two stars, good. Three stars, very good. Four stars, excellent.
[Read More …]
No comments:
Post a Comment