Soak in hot springs, hike to waterfalls and avoid crowds during a Pagosa Springs weekend getaway

Ahhh, Pagosa. Lazy days on the San Juan River, cool nights at the hot springs. A long weekend here can be a breath of fresh air, and you won’t even mind that it’s sulfur-tinged in some places around this mountain town. After all, that’s part of the appeal.

Pagosa Springs is just far enough away from the Front Range to weed out the big crowds of weekend visitors. The vacationers are still around, and you might encounter a mini traffic jam right at the hottest spot in town, where a bend in the road curves around Town Park, The Springs Resort and a collection of shops and restaurants that draw folks out of their tubes on the river. But north of town, in the Weminuche Wilderness, it’s easy to get away from civilization — fast.

Take a long weekend and soak it all up. This is mountain relaxation at its most chill.

Stay (and soak)

The Springs Resort is right in the middle of the action. From here you can walk to breakfast, lunch and dinner, and even hoof it to rent a tube to float on the San Juan. But the real reason to stay at The Springs is the thermal pools themselves. The resort’s terraces of spring-fed pools cascade down to the river, making it convenient to hop into the cold water to reset your thermostat. Pools are marked by temperature; test them and find the perfect one for you. Being a hotel guest comes with perks, like 24-hour access to the springs and a quieter, adults-only area. In the morning, you’re likely to have a pool to yourself for a sunrise soak. The resort has a range of rooms in three lodge buildings (the newest has a bar, with happy hour), so there’s something for everyone.

pagosahotsprings.com, 165 Hot Springs Blvd., 970-264-4168

Hike

For those making the trek into Pagosa Springs from the east, the short hike to Treasure Falls, on the west side of Wolf Creek Pass along U.S. 160, is a welcome excuse to get out of the car and work those legs. Yes, you can see it from the parking lot, but you’ll want to take the short walk right up to the base of these 100-foot falls.

In Pagosa, dirt roads around town fan out into a wonderland of routes for mountain biking or ATV runs. But for a spectacular hike, head into the Weminuche Wilderness, which encompasses the dense forest and rugged peaks looming north of Pagosa Springs. A suggested hike: From the Fourmile Trailhead (up Fourmile Road), take the 3.5-mile (one-way) hike to a towering waterfall careening down a precipitous cliff. Get close enough to feel the spray, then watch for summer birds, such as Western Tanagers, on the return hike.

Congrats, you’ve earned that nighttime soak in the hot springs.

Float the river

With the San Juan River winding right through town, it’s hard to pass up the appeal of a float on a sunny afternoon. Pagosa Outside (350 Pagosa St., 970-264-4202, pagosaoutside.com) rents tubes and runs a shuttle service, so you don’t even have to talk the kids into walking back up the river after the first ride.

Where to eat

Pagosa Springs has several excellent breakfast options. Head to The Rose (408 Pagosa St., 970-264-2955) for a big breakfast, and don’t miss the green chile. For a quicker bite, Pagosa Baking Company (238 Pagosa St., 970-264-9348, pagosabakingcompany.com) has delicious pastries to go, but order the breakfast burrito, add in the pleasant atmosphere and it’s hard not to linger here, too.

Old Town Natural Market and Deli (20 San Juan St., 970-264-5200, otmpagosa.com; closed Sundays) makes a mean sandwich that, along with a fresh-pressed juice or smoothie, will set you right after a day in the woods. Plus you can stock up here with snacks or lunch for tomorrow’s adventure.

Kip’s Grill (121 E. Pagosa St., 970-264-3663, kipsgrill.com) has long been an apres-ski favorite for skiers and snowboarders making the trek back from Wolf Creek. But summertime calls for fish tacos and mozzarella-stuffed Hatch green chiles, too. (Proximity to the New Mexico border has a distinct influence on what you’ll eat in Pagosa.) Whatever you order, you’ll want to wash it down with a house margarita.

Riff Raff Brewing (274 Pagosa St., 970-264-4677, riffraffbrewing.com) is quite literally tapped into the town’s hot spring. Geothermal water heats the building, including the kitchen and brewhouse, and the hot water they use to make their ales. Grab a table out front, order some excellent pub grub and an El Duende green chile ale — like everything else in Pagosa Springs, there’s just the right amount of heat there to enhance your feelings of total chill.

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