Wednesday, November 28, 2018

Restaurant review: Denver Milk Market overwhelming at first, but worth the effort

2.5 stars (out of 4)

Downtown Denver’s Dairy Block is quickly becoming one of the neighborhood’s most in-demand stretches. The ballpark-adjacent micro-district is a one-stop destination: The Windsor Dairy’s onetime home encompasses the Maven hotel, Kachina Cantina, Poka Lola Social Club, Huckleberry Roasters, Denver Milk Market, Seven Grand whiskey bar, a couple of shops, and — AND — a host of yet-to-open businesses.

Of that lengthy list, Denver Milk Market is among the most ambitious. (Seven Grand, with its starting lineup of around 450 bottles of whiskey, is a worthy competitor, though.) Chef and restaurateur Frank Bonanno’s “legacy” project is a slight reimagining of the food hall trend taking over the city; rather than a variety of vendors, Bonanno is behind all 16 concepts (13 eateries, three bars). Some of them will be familiar to Denver diners: S&G Salumeria, for example, is an abridged version of LoHi’s Salt & Grinder, and Lou’s Hot and Naked is a revival of Lou’s Food Bar, which shuttered in early 2017. Most stalls also have accompanying mini markets, selling ready-to-eat options, items to cook at home, and various food- and drink-related wares.

Milk Market is laid out in a circle, so you can mosey past all the options before making a dining decision. It won’t be easy, though. In fact, you may find yourself circling a few times, as Milk Market can be overwhelming on your first — and even your third — visit. Thankfully, you can carry your drink of choice anywhere in the venue as you ponder your choices. The welcoming, and often bustling, space is open for breakfast, lunch, dinner, happy hour and late-night, and every concept has not only its own menu but specialty drinks, too.

Diners order at the counter, grab seats at any of the various high-tops, tables and counters, and receive a text message when their food is ready. Even with this informal system, service is impressive, which is even more noteworthy when you consider that Bonanno had to hire around 250 people during a labor shortage that’s hurting many local restaurants; the staffers are consistently jovial, quick to make recommendations, and happy to clear dishes if they’re walking by (there are self-bussing stations throughout).

Bonanno clearly has his training program down, but with 16 concepts to oversee, it’s to be expected that some will excel while others fall behind. With the holiday spirit already jingling through town, we took it upon ourselves to taste a bit of everything, so we could point you in the right direction(s). Here’s where to eat — and drink — at Denver Milk Market.

Hits: The best of the bunch.

FEM Crêpes (FEM stands for “flours, eggs, milk” — a.k.a., the three ingredients needed to make the doughy treats) serves both sweet and savory varieties ($8 to $14), and diners can also build their own blends (starting at $6). The spinach, Swiss and mushroom version ($8) is the best of both worlds: a buttery, slightly crisp crêpe folded with sautéed veggies and just the right amount of gooey cheese. Grab some extra napkins and eat it with your hands.

Albina by the Sea‘s ocean-hued, fish-scale-shaped wall tiles create an attractive backdrop for this fish market. Named for Bonanno’s grandmother, the eatery serves sandwiches ($12 to $24), entrées ($16 to $21), and a variety of underwater favorites like popcorn shrimp ($12), mussels ($17), and fish tacos ($10). The sizeable blackened fish sandwich ($12) — served on a thick grinder roll from City Bakery — pulls nice heat from its char, but the spice is offset by a salmon-hued remoulade, tomato and shredded lettuce. Pair it with a side of crispy and lemony Brussels sprouts ($5).

At Lou’s Hot and Naked, one of the venue’s best spots, it’s all about the chicken — fried chicken, in particular. The menu at the diner-style space (think: red counter stools, houndstooth tiles) includes sandwiches ($4 to $8.75), a.m. skillets ($10 to $15), and plates built from a choice of chicken, heat level, and one or two sides ($10 to $28). The two-piece chicken plate ($10 to $12), the smallest of the bunch, is large enough to feed a grown man. Risk your taste buds for the hot chicken. The skin is crunchy and the meat tender, and the bread soaks up some of the zing. The bacon-speckled collard greens round out a perfect plate. Pair it with the on-tap nitro bourbon cider ($6).

The salad bar, Green Huntsman, offers specialty blends and build-your-own options ($8 to $18) in small and large sizes, as well as house-made drinking vinegars ($4). The garden quinoa ($8 or $12) is packed with veggies, blending kale, bell peppers, sugar snap peas, corn and roasted cauliflower with red quinoa and a red wine vinaigrette. The large easily feeds two, especially if you add protein ($3 to $5). Four drinking vinegars — a combo of fruit, sugar, and vinegar that’s trending in wellness circles — continue the health food theme; the blackberry-ginger option tastes like a slightly sweetened, non-bubbly soda, and is a non-intimidating introduction for vinegar-sipping newbies.

Milk Market has not one, but two, pizza options: Bonanno Brothers Pizzeria (another former Bonanno restaurant revival) serves some of the food hall’s tastiest eats. The full-size, shareable pies ($10 to $19) start with crusts that hold a tinge of sweetness, and the slices just beg to be folded. Opt for the wild mushroom ($16) with béchamel sauce, lush Robiola cheese and a sprinkling of truffle oil. Engine Room, the late-night, pizza-by-the-slice eatery in the Dairy Block alley, is currently only open from 5 p.m. until 3 a.m. (or until it runs out of dough) on Fridays and Saturdays, but Bonanno hopes to expand the days in January. Slices start at $2.75 and are available with red or white sauce, or Sicilian-style; whole pizzas are also available ($20-plus).

Fans of Salt & Grinder will find the same thick sandwiches ($9 to $13) at S&G Salumeria (though the menu here is more concise), plus a diverse lineup of charcuterie ($9 to $12 each). The Tuscan sandwich ($10) is piled high with a tangy mix of roasted red peppers, pickled onion, arugula, tomato and house-made mozzarella. Meat-eaters will have to decide between S&G and the New York deli sandwiches (pastrami, corned beef, etc., all $16) and burgers ($6.50 to $8.50) at Ruth’s Butchery. The simple hamburger’s ($6.50) thin patty is juicy and flawlessly grilled, and the Tetris piece-shaped tater tots ($3) are crisp and just plain fun. (Top them with not-too-spicy green chile queso for $2.)

Misses: These spots aren’t quite as appetizing as their neighbors.

Milk Market’s coffee shop, Morning Jones, serves java drinks ($2 to $4), 75-cent doughnuts, pastries ($2 to $5), a breakfast burrito ($4) and more. The sweets case is salivation-inducing, and everything is made fresh, but the eats are better on the eyes than the tongue. An almond croissant ($3.50) was buttery but tough, while a square of blackberry coffee cake ($3.50) was under-baked.

The pork belly filling brings some nice heat to the bao buns ($12 for three) at Bao Chica Bao, but the bun-to-filling ratio leans too heavily toward the bun. Another option, the hoisin-braised chicken, is over-sauced, but the tofu is just right. Our recommendation: Build up your bun order with the handful of sides, like kimchi or soy pickles, to enhance the flavor and texture of the Pac-Man-shaped bites. (The stall also serves rice and noodle bowls and hot sake on tap.)

Bonanno is known for his Italian cooking, which makes the disappointing pappardelle Bolognese ($18) at Mano Pastaria even more of a letdown. The thick noodles were just past al dente (a minor flaw in this case), and the blend of veal and beef was rich and warming, but the sauce was thin. The biggest issue, though, is that the menu notes the bowl is “finished with rosemary” — an understatement. There is so much of the herb on the dish that it overwhelmed every other ingredient and the palate. Still, the freshly made pastas waiting to be cooked at home and cases of antipasti are both worth a stop.

With so many poke shops popping up around town, it takes a lot to stand out. Unfortunately, MoPoke doesn’t. At the small stand — outfitted with an Instagram-ready wall of painted life preservers accompanied by a neon “Wish You Were Here” sign — diners build their own bowls ($12) from a base of rice or kale and a choice of four proteins and three toppings. Regrettably, the tamarind-glazed tuna didn’t pull any flavor from its glaze and the rice was dry and tasteless.

Gelato shop Cornicello is charming (the sprinkle-like polka dot counter!) but not a satisfying meal-ender. The gelato ($3.50 for a single scoop) is way more icy than creamy. An espresso scoop was bland and the pomegranate sorbet cheek-puckering. The pistachio, however, was saved by folded-in nut slivers.

Drink: Denver Milk Market has three main booze options, all of which earn good marks: the central Moo Bar, which serves it all; Cellar wine bar; and the Stranded Pilgrim, a beer pub.

Moo Bar’s cocktail list is split into classics ($10), BOCO Classics (favorites from Bonanno’s other eateries, $10), and soon-to-be classics ($12). The Peach Street black Manhattan ($10) is smooth and extra-boozy (perfect for a snowy night), while the Hodaquiri ($12) — named for Bonanno Concepts’ beverage director Adam Hodak — is tongue-smackingly sweet. Eight beers and ciders are available on tap ($5 to $6) and 12 in cans and bottles ($3 to $5), as well as more than a dozen wines by the glass and bottle (starting at $6 and $21, respectively). Unlike the serve-yourself vibe of the rest of Milk Market, Moo Bar offers a concise menu of pasta, pizza and meat-and-cheese boards that will be delivered to your seat.

Cellar serves wine and bubbly by the glass ($6 and up) and bottle (starting at $21), but your dollar goes farthest with a flight: three nearly full-size glasses for $12.

Hopheads will want to walk directly to the back corner for the Stranded Pilgrim’s lineup of taps. (The pub-style venue also serves a small menu of eats from Ruth’s Butchery and Albina by the Sea.) Nine local breweries and one cidery are represented, each serving a well-known brew plus one that’s usually only available at their taproom or was made just for Milk Market. Among those is the citrusy, not-too-bitter Full Transparency IPA ($6) from Broomfield’s 4 Noses Brewing Company, and the delightfully floral lavender-hibiscus cider from Denver’s Stem Ciders.

Bottom Line: Some of the concepts at Denver Milk Market still need to find their footing, but the social atmosphere, contemporary design, and plethora of options provide a solid foundation to build from. The continued expansion of Dairy Block should only help.

Fun Fact: Every purchase at Milk Market does good: One percent all sales benefits the neurology department at Children’s Hospital Colorado.

Denver Milk Market

1800 Wazee St.; 303-792-8242; denvermilkmarket.com

Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily for most stalls. FEM and Morning Jones open at 7 a.m., while the bars, Mano Pastaria, and Bonanno Bros. Pizzeria stay open until 11 p.m.

Reservations: Not accepted

Parking: Metered street parking and valet

Star Rating Guide: Ratings range from zero to four stars. Zero is poor. One star, satisfactory. Two stars, good. Three stars, very good. Four stars, excellent.

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