2 stars (out of 4)
For many people, the adage “Breakfast is the most important meal of the day” is a reminder to start the day on a healthy note, with oatmeal or yogurt or green smoothies. But there’s another way to spin that statement: If breakfast is truly the essential meal, then shouldn’t we enjoy it the most? Shouldn’t we indulge a little? After all, we’ll have all day to work off those chocolate chip pancakes (unlike that after-dinner bowl of ice cream).
Whichever camp you fall into — the nutritious or sweet day-starter — you’ll find a fitting meal at Maddie’s Restaurant, a lively breakfast and lunch spot in Rosedale. The eatery, which is named after chef-owner Gayor Geller’s daughter (not one to play favorites, his son has a breakfast sandwich named after him), originally opened in 2013. The tiny venue got so busy that Geller and his team moved into the converted 1950s service station next door in late 2016. The wait can still be long on weekend mornings, but now diners can pass the time on the large patio or under the shade of the portico.
Maddie’s serves a mostly expected mix of morning and midday eats, with some surprising Israeli twists thrown in. It’s a busy modern diner where service always — honestly — comes with a smile and patrons will feel comfortable bringing their kids (see the play area up front). Because most important meal of the day or not, no one should have to start working on his to-do list on an empty stomach.
Vibe: Whether you visit for weekend brunch or late lunch on a Wednesday, expect Maddie’s to be bustling. There’s almost always a wait on weekends, especially if the patio is closed (Denver’s recent extreme heat doesn’t mix well with metal chairs). Inside, the decor elicits a comforting diner feel, with pop art, tiled walls, and a gray and red color palette, while garage windows in the dining room and bar area provide plenty of natural light. This is an energetic neighborhood hangout where the red water cups feature Denver Broncos logos.
Hits: The menu at Maddie’s reflect Geller’s diverse food inspirations — southwestern (he grew up in Arizona), Israeli (where his family is from), American — so diners can opt for whatever suits their palates. Most of the dishes are straightforward, succeeding because they’re established breakfast and lunch eats prepared well, not because they’re particularly inventive. However, there is one unexpected winner among the mostly traditional a.m. options: What Came First? ($10.75) could be considered a Middle Eastern take on chicken fried chicken. Two eggs share the plate with a house-made, vegetarian gravy-topped portion of chicken schnitzel. The gravy would make Goldilocks happy, being just thick enough. The schnitzel was juicy, and the portion size was large enough for two people. Our only complaint: The accompanying challah (from Rosenberg’s Kosher, formerly the Bagel Store), was sliced too thin and toasted; challah is best enjoyed fresh, in large slivers.
Eggs are consistently perfectly cooked, whether crowning the corned beef hash ($10), which is full of tender hunks of hand-carved meat and a well-seasoned blend of potatoes, onions, and green peppers, or in the Maddie’s breakfast burrito ($10.50), a reliable, if basic, option. The kitchen staff does earn bonus points for mixing the potatoes, eggs, cheese, peppers, and onions together before rolling them in a tasty tomato-basil tortilla.
For a touch of sweet, indulge in a breakfast appetizer of house-made cinnamon brioche sticky buns ($6). The three rounds are small, cinnamon-y, and more firm than fluffy. Drag each bite through the swirls of caramel and crème anglaise dotting the plate.
An aside: Most dishes are available with the option of fruit or potatoes, meaning — for once — diners don’t have to cough up extra cash for the healthier side. And non-meat-eaters will be happy to know that all of the restaurant’s sauces, including the green chile, are vegetarian.
At lunchtime, it’s all about classic flavors. The open-faced tuna melt ($9.25) is served on an English muffin (tip: ask for frings on the side because the onion rings are stellar). The Mideast Veggie ($9.75) tosses a standard Israeli salad blend (diced tomatoes, cucumber, onion, and peppers) with hummus, greens, and Feta, and can be ordered as a wrap (our recommendation) or as a panini.
Misses: Because Maddie’s doesn’t stray too far from the familiar, it’s hard to really call anything a miss. But some dishes are less successful. The traditional Benedict ($10), for example, got a nice boost from smoked Gouda and thick-cut ham, but the hollandaise was too runny and absent the decadent creaminess that makes it a breakfast go-to.
A single latke ($4) ordered on the side for lunch was overcooked and so slender that the expected oily potato yumminess became an unpleasant nearly-burnt crunch.
Drinks: Maddie’s drink menu features the standard lineup (coffee, tea, juice, soda). The java is sourced from Denver roaster Boyer’s Coffee, and the dairy-averse will be happy to see almond milk available — for the same price as a glass of regular. Those looking for an early buzz will find some familiar friends: booze-laced coffees ($9); Bloody Marys, mimosas, and Bellinis available solo ($5 to $6) or bottomless ($15); screwdrivers ($8), spicy palomas ($10), Moscow mules ($9), and more.
Service: The waitstaff at Maddie’s is informal but steady. Expect them to be welcoming and conversational and to check in regularly, but also leave you and your dining companions to enjoy your meals without bother. Your water and coffee cups will never get too low, and food arrives swiftly.
Bottom Line: There’s nothing glamorous about Maddie’s–and that’s as it should be. This is a neighborhood diner that does a solid job serving reliable breakfast and lunch eats, a recipe that works for the plethora of families and college students in the area.
Price: Breakfast ($8.50 to $12.75); Lunch ($9 to $10.75); Kid’s meals ($6.75); Cocktails ($4.50 to $10)
Fun Fact: Maddie’s hosts a bluegrass series, Pickin’ on the Patio, on most Saturdays in June and July. Al fresco diners enjoy a separate grill menu (think: smoked ribs) and drink specials. The final show of the season will be held on July 28, from 4 to 10 p.m. It’s the inaugural Cowboy Luau, and tickets (starting at $45) include food and bottomless tropical swills. Find more info at equitycapitalgroupe.com.
Restaurant Info
Maddie’s Restaurant
2425 S. Downing St.
720-389-8068
Hours: 7 a.m. to 2 p.m., Tuesday through Sunday
Reservations: Not accepted
Parking: Lot
Star Rating Guide: Ratings range from zero to four stars. Zero is poor. One star, satisfactory. Two stars, good. Three stars, very good. Four stars, excellent.
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