Dear pasta,
We’re so glad you’re back.
We know things have been rough in recent years, what with that Atkins guy and all the gluten-free stuff, and we’re sure there were days you didn’t even feel like leaving your cardboard box. But we’re so happy you found the strength to jump into that boiling water and onto the center of our plates once again.
We understand why you went into hiding for a bit — the die-hard Keto dieters will do that to anyone — but you’re back, baby, and you’re better than ever.
We hope you realize that the problem was never really you — it was all us. There’s nothing wrong with flour, eggs, salt and water. Nothing at all. On behalf of everyone who ever suffered through a low-carb diet, let me sincerely apologize for our short-sightedness. We were miserable without you.
Now we know that eating you will help us live longer: New research presented at the European Society of Cardiology Congress found that people who consume the least amount of carbs have a higher risk of dying young compared to people who eat the most and, similarly, scientists from Brigham and Women’s Hospital who analyzed nearly half a million people found that low-carbers have a 20 percent higher risk of premature death. But of course you’ve known that all along. Forgive our temporary lapse in judgment; we blame the lack of carbs.
You’re probably familiar with Denver’s thriving pasta scene. Just in the past year or two we’ve gotten Tavernetta, Chow Morso, Quality Italian, Cattivella, Dio Mio, Bettola Bistro, Marcella’s, Mano Pastaria, Coperta, a bigger and better Il Posto and the upcoming Liberati and Jovanina’s Broken Italian. Heck, Boulder’s Emmerson restaurant, which opened last summer, even named itself after the very soul of you. (Emmer is an ancient mother grain.)
And while we’ve mourned the loss of too many old-school pasta joints (RIP Blue Parrot, Patsy’s Inn, Pagliacci’s and Old Spaghetti Factory), there’s reason for noodley optimism. The new cool-kid restaurants are embracing you, too. The Way Back, The Wolf’s Tailor, Concourse and The Bindery all have dedicated pasta sections.
Il Pastaio, Frasca, Gaetano’s, Venice, Barolo Grill, Mama Sanninos, Trattoria Stella, Parisi, Shells & Sauce, Sarto’s and Angelo’s are still packing them in every night. Noodles & Company just had its best quarterly sales performance in six years. It’s really no wonder: There is more protein in two ounces of you than in an egg.
We bet you’re relieved to see that worldwide pasta consumption is on the rise, and you probably blushed when The Telegraph declared “the carb is back.” The crew at pasta-heavy Tavernetta agrees.
“I would say that for 90 percent of the guests at Tavernetta, ‘low carb’ does not exist,” said general manager Justin Williams. “We also have guests who come in and order every pasta on the menu.” Bless them.
Sure, there are gluten-free versions of you as well, and we’re genuinely thrilled that those with serious, life-threatening diseases can also enjoy your splendors. But for the majority of us who can pick and choose what we eat freely, we’re overjoyed to once again pick you.
“People are definitely rediscovering the joy of great pasta, breads and gluten-containing foods,” said Jake Linzinmeir, chef at and co-owner of Jovanina’s Broken Italian, opening this week. “It helps a lot that the base flours and building blocks have gotten so much better.”
In these tumultuous times, we’re so glad we have you to turn to for comfort. Forgive us our lack of commitment; we’ve done the soul-searching and we know that you are our one true starchy love. Today may be National Pasta Day and October National Pasta Month, but you had better believe it’s every day in our hearts.
Yours forever,
Carb-lovers everywhere
Where to celebrate National Pasta Day on Oct. 17:
Coperta is hosting a four-course pasta feast all day on the 17th. For $39, you’ll get some seriously good noodles, like squid ink lorighittas (think little braided lassos) and duck confit ravioli. 400 E. 20th Ave., Denver, 720-749-4666; copertadenver.com
Head to any of Mici‘s five locations (including the brand-new Lafayette spot) for buy one, get one pastas all day long. various locations; miciitalian.com; use code PASTA18 if ordering online
While it’s not exactly special for pasta day, it’s never-ending pasta bowl time at Olive Garden. Go big or go home, starting at $10.99. various locations; olivegarden.com
For pasta day, Marcella’s Ristorante, Pizzeria & Wine Bar will sell two pastas, the penne alla arrabbiata and capellini al pomodoro, for $10.17. 1801 Central St., Denver, 720-484-5484; marcellasrestaurant.com
Get a sneak peek (and 25 percent off) Panzano’s new bucatini della casa pasta dish during lunch and dinner on the 17th. 909 17th St., Denver, 303-296-3525; panzano-denver.com
Order Chow Morso Osteria’s carbonara and get 15 percent off all day. (Or make your own with the recipe below.) 1500 Wynkoop St., Denver, 720-639-4089; chowmorso.com
How to celebrate at home:
Carbonara, from Chow Morso Osteria
Ingredients
- 5 ounches spaghetti noodles
- 1 ounce julienne yellow onion
- 1 ounce julienne pancetta
- 3 ounce chicken stock
- 2 ounce parmesan cheese
- 1 ounce butter
- 1 egg yolk
- Chives
- Extra virgin olive oil
Directions
Sauté yellow onions and pancetta in olive oil until you start to get color on the onions and the pancetta starts to crisp. Add stock, butter and cheese to the pan, stir sauce till it becomes creamy.
Cook pasta in boiling water until half-way cooked, then add to sauté pan and finish noodles in the sauce itself. Plate pasta in a bowl, with a decent amount of sauce to allow you to mix in egg yolk to complete sauce.
Nestle egg yolk on top of pasta. (It’ll cook a bit from the heat of everything else.) Complete dish by garnishing with chives, parmesan, crispy pancetta and extra virgin olive oil.
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